Taking Care Of Mini Lops:
Taking care of Mini Lops is fairly easy. They need about as much care and love as a dog or cat. They are very friendly and playful, they require very little space, they are relatively easy to litter train, they love bonding with people, they generally get along with cats, dogs, chickens and other animals.
They are able to live indoors or outdoors, as long as there is an adequate shelter. Mini Lops are playful and enjoy simple toys such as an empty toilet paper roll with slits in it filled with hay, small rattles or balls, see our toys page for more information on this.
All bunnies do have some stress as they move to a new home, with new noises, smells, and people, so it is important to know the best ways of making them feel most comfortable to provide the smoothest transition for them. When your bunny first arrives, be very gentle. Do not over-handle it, and let this sweet, cuddly one adjust to his/her new surroundings. It may take a couple of days for the bunny to adjust and feel comfortable with his or her new home. This is a balance...don't leave your new addition alone too long, because we want you new wiggly-nosed addition to bond with you and get comfortable as quickly as possible. So, definitely love on them as well as giving them a few hours of quietness to adjust. Does that make sense?
We will send transition food home with you when you purchase a bunny from us. Gradually mix in greater amounts of your own pellets of food, so that the change in food will not upset your bunny's digestive tract. You will also not want to give your bunny a lot of treats at first. Once you see that her poop is normal, he/she is eating well and social, you will know it is okay to add in special treats. Bunnies have a difficult time with adjusting to too many things at the same time.
If you would like to keep them on the exact food they are currently eating, here is what we feed them:
12 part Manna Pro Sho
6 part whole oats
1 part black oil sunflower seeds
1 part whole barley
1 part dried beets
If you have any questions for us, feel free to ask, we are here and love to answer questions and help any way we can. We hope that some of the things addressed below help to answer many of your questions. Please read our sales policy before purchasing a bunny from us.
Cage Size: This can be in the form of an open exercise pen or rabbit run, or you can even use a baby gate with a litter box. The walls should be at least 3 feet high so the bunny cannot hop over it. If it is outdoors, you may want to bury the wire a few inches underground to prevent your rabbit from digging under it. The top of the pen should be covered to protect from predators (if outdoors). If your bunny is outdoors, parasites will be more of a problem and we recommend food grade diatomaceous earth in the food and brushed into the fur occasionally. Doing this could prolong your bunny's life. Please see our blog about this. Metal cages with wire mesh bottoms make clean-up easier. There are single level and multi-level cages. If you are building or buying a simple single-leveled cage, the cage should be a minimum of 24" X 36" and a minimum of 24 inches high. They enjoy stretching out and moving around, playing with the toys you have provided.
Wire Cages should be free from any sharp edges to prevent injury to the animal or owner. Mini Lops enjoy going outside, hopping around the room, or the house to get a little exercise once in a while. You could also provide a small piece of carpet to sit on in the winter and a tile or something cooler to sit on the summer, the drying pad as mentioned above works nice for both summer and winter. Their cages should be waterproof, either with a cover if they are outdoors or by placing them indoors. Rabbits do not like to get wet and can get sick. Their coats are not waterproof. They do better in colder weather than they do warmer weather. They get overheated easily. Their fur coat keeps them pretty warm. Use discretion wherever you have them and be sure they are comfortable. For more information on building your own cage click here (these dimensions are for French Lops, but you can use the dimensions above with these instructions.
Here are a few examples of some favorite cages that people like that we feel work well. Many have asked us what kind of cage works best, but it is difficult to choose just one, because every house is different and people's needs are different. But, here are a few of our favorite cages to choose from. Of course there are many more options than what we have listed.
If you are planning to potty-train your bunny, but want a versatile area you can have in the house or outside, as well as protecting your bunny from predators, this cage might be a great option for you.
Sometimes people prefer a cage and then they will put a playpen around the cage. If you opt for this one, the 24.5" high option will be better. Bunnies can jump high. We do think the 30" is even better though (see previous cage idea).
Here is an option where you can build your own cage. If you opt for this option...you may want to get 2-3 sets so you can make it higher so they can't hop out :)
Others prefer an indoor hutch-type system.
During nice weather, if you have a yard, sometimes something like this is helpful. This way the bunny is protected, and you can go in the area with the bunny to play with him/her.
And still others, prefer an outdoor hutch system.
Even if you plan on your bunny being free-roaming around your home when you are there, you will still want to put him/her in an enclosure when you are not at home. Bunnies can chew on wires or other things and you want him/her to stay safe until you are back home. Also, it is much easier to potty-train in a smaller space and then gradually enlarge their area to a larger territory.
Animals who pace back and forth; move their feed and water dishes for no reason; have constant chewing at water bottles; pulling at wire; or any other repetitive behavior are likely telling you that they would like a toy to play with. Toys can be easily cleaned in the dishwasher. We feel that rabbits that have interesting things to do live longer, since this is true with people, it would make sense to be also be true for Mini Lops, though we do not have any facts to support this theory. Mini Lops love attention from adults, children, and other rabbits. They are very sweet, playful, and cuddly. Each one is unique and has his/her own personality.
Cage Bedding: Typically, bedding is not used in wire bottom cages, but on some occasions, particularly on occasions of sudden extreme cold, either straw or hay may be used. Cages with solid bottoms will use wood shavings, wood chips, straw, etc. as contact bedding to help absorb urine within the enclosure. With wire cages, you will need a pan or something for the droppings to drop into if you are not litter training, in this case we recommend the non-toxic pine pellets, they smell a lot better and you don't need as much of them as you do many of the other materials. Cedar chips should be avoided as it is known to cause upper respiratory infections.
If you have chosen a wire cage, these mats will be helpful so your bunny can rest his/her feet.
Some bunnies also love the hammocks to relieve their feet of wire and have a little fun!
The cage you choose depends a lot on your family dynamic, where you plan to keep your bunny, and your own personal preferences. Some people choose to keep their bunny in the house and others prefer a setup outside. Often people that keep their bunny in the house, will get a cage and leave the door open and it is enclosed in a play area. They often put a litter box in the cage or play area so the bunny can be potty-trained and receive more attention. Others may purchase a hutch that stays warmer if they are planning to keep the bunny outside. Often the bunny still has some sort of play area in both scenarios. It will have a lot to do with the size of your space as well.
Cage Cleaning and Sanitation: Cages need to be kept in a clean and sanitary condition in order to promote a healthy living environment for the animals. Bedding needs to be changed as often as necessary to prevent over soiling and wetness; usually every other day to every couple days is best. For animals with contact bedding (bedding in which they come into direct contact), the bedding will typically need to be changed on a weekly basis at a minimum. Wire bottom floors need to be cleaned weekly to remove any buildup of hair and fecal deposits. Trays are to be emptied and cleaned to prevent the buildup of waste. Power washing the cages periodically can be helpful on the wire cages.
Did you know??? Their manure is full of amazing nutrients for your garden, and you can use it right away, you don't have to let it sit like you do with chicken manure and others. Their manure is full of nutrients that your flowers, fruits and veggies need to thrive, so throw it out there and enjoy the benefits.
Feed and Bedding Storage: Feed and bedding should be stored in a way that it does not attract mice and rats. It is best to keep it in an enclosed container. Bedding needs to be stored off the ground and away from walls.
Food: We use manna pro and manna pro sho for food. We also add in whole rye, dried beets, barley grains, oat grains, and black oil sunflower seeds so they are getting omega 3 in their diet. Barley biscuits are also very good for their coat.
How Much to Feed: How much you feed your bunny will depend on the age and size of the bunny. Bunnies under 6 months old should receive unlimited pellets and Timothy hay. Wait until bunnies are about 5 months to give very many vegetables. A few here and there are fine, but too many may upset their sensitive stomachs. Bunnies above 6 months of age should be fed 4.5 to 6 ounces of feed per day if they are about 6 lbs. You can either offer all of your food at once or divide it up between meals during the day. All bunnies should have unlimited timothy hay. Bunnies older than 6 months will also enjoy some fruits and vegetables, but be careful not to give more than they can handle. You will know if it is too much if they get a soft stool. Remember to make any dietary changes slowly. Drastic changes can cause severe digestive problems for your bunny. Commercially designed rabbit treats are rarely healthy and we recommend keeping it limited.
Environmental Conditions: Temperature, ventilation, and light are important to maintaining healthy rabbits. The ideal temperature range for a rabbit is 55 degrees to 70 degrees. Rabbits can adapt to temperatures outside of this range with appropriate environmental conditioning. They should not be placed in direct sunlight, where they get too hot and have no where to escape. Rabbits do not do well when temperatures exceed 85 degrees. Fans, misters, and frozen water bottles in cages are examples of methods to help animals cope with high temperatures. Ventilation during high temperatures is essential to help air quality. Rabbits that are acclimated to cooler temperatures do quite well without the aid of heaters. Rabbits are quite hearty in cases of extreme cold, provided they have been acclimated to such temperatures. During cold weather months, animals may require more feed as more energy is used in cold temperatures. Rabbits need to be sheltered from the elements of direct sunlight, rain, snow, wind, etc. Natural outdoor lighting and light cycles are ideal environmental conditions. In cases where natural sunlight is not available, artificial lights need to be provided to mimic natural light/dark cycles.
Nutrition and Water: Proper nutrition is very important in raising healthy rabbits. It is recommended that the primary source of nutrition comes from a commercially produced pelleted food (next to Timothy hay). The milling date is located on the feed bag and feed should not be used if the feed is greater than six months old. Look on the back of the pellet feed bag to find the protein and fiber content. It is best for rabbits to eat between 15-17% protein and at least 17% fiber. Supplements such as hay, oats, sunflower seeds, calf manna, safflower seeds, barley, etc. may be given in addition to the pelleted feed. Treats, such as fruits and vegetables, may be given in small amounts as well. Treats and supplements should not be relied upon as a complete diet. They enjoy alfalfa (only to babies), Timothy hay, clovers, and dandelions (for all ages). It is best for them to have a constant supply of these greens. Good treats include dandelions, oatmeal, and parsley. You can give raising in small quantities. It is recommended that they be fed once a day. It is only recommended that animals have food in front of them at all times if they are nursing or growing litters. They must have a clean supply of fresh water, daily. Water should be checked often, and water nozzles should be checked to be sure it is not clogged.
There are many food and water containers to choose from. This is our favorite one!
We like that these bowls are easy to remove and clean.
This hay container is great because it is easy to get hay out of, and since it should be the primary food they eat, we want it to be accessible. It is also helpful that the bunnies cannot sit inside of it because then they will go to the bathroom in their hay.
This hay container is similar, but works well in a cage where you need to hang the hay feeder.
It is important not to over feed your bunny. You should be able to feel the bumps of the rabbits vertebrae, along his or her spine. If the bumps are sharp or pointed, it is possible that the rabbit may be too thin. If you cannot feel the vertebrae, the rabbit is likely overweight. You should not be able to pinch rolls off your rabbit's skin. It is important for bunnies to have plenty of exercise too, so that will play a role in how much you feed your bunny as well.
Grooming: Mini Lops are in general, very clean. They clean themselves regularly, similar to a cat. They very rarely need cleaned. It is not recommended to give rabbits a bath. Giving them a bath can send them into a panic and cause death if they are not very comfortable with you. We do occasionally bathe our bunnies, but they all trust us fully. Spending as much time with them as possible will help them be okay with you doing this. They enjoy being brushed once or twice a week. If their nails get long, you can easily trim them with nail clippers about once a month. These nail clippers work great. We find that the fancy ones usually break quickly. We love the brushes like this, but do not feel you need the other things in the kit.
Rabbits are very clean animals and like to groom themselves. It is essential that you brush your rabbit about once a week, because bunnies are not able to vomit hairballs out, like a cat can do. This can cause wool block in a bunny. To prevent this, just brush them at least once a week. When they are shedding, you may want to brush them more often. They tend to molt once or twice a year. Some bunnies do this all at once and others slowly lose it over many months.
Spay/Neuter or Mating: If you are purchasing a bunny for a pet, it is best to spay or neuter. This will keep either gender from becoming aggressive, and overall, they will be a sweeter pet and easier to potty-train. In a female, if you are not breeding, their chance of getting cancer is very high if they are not spayed. We do have a recommended local vet: Belton Animal Clinic, that does accept exotic animals and is very good with bunnies. James River Animal Hospital is also great. They are located in Springfield, MO and seem to have the best prices that we have found on spaying/neutering. We have recently been told about another vet that is very good, but have not personally used them: Kansas City Veterinary Care
Letting Mini Lops run free: They will nibble and chew on wiring, shoes, mobile phones, clothes, and cables. These things should be kept well out of the way. You can also apply hot sauce on the wiring and cables to discourage them from chewing on it. You can litter train your rabbit just like a cat. If you are loving on your bunny a lot...her or she will most likely prefer being with you than chewing on wiring. However, if you grow herbs in your house...beware, they will nibble them all up, haha...we know from experience.
Potty Training: Generally, litter box training can take a few days to a month or so. They are easier to potty train when they are spayed/neutered also. If your bunny has an accident and goes poop, it helps to just scoop it up with a dust pan and then put it in his/her litter box so he/she can see where they are supposed to go potty. The same if they go potty on the floor...clean it up with a paper towel and vinegar and then throw the paper towel with their scent on it, in the litter box so they know where they are supposed to go. They usually catch on really fast. Pine pellets are safe for bunnies and can be purchased at tractor supply. We use that in their litter box. This type of litter box, where they are not sitting directly on their potty is best. If you hang their hay trough near their litter box, people usually have more success rates, because they often like to eat their hay when they use the bathroom.
Note: Certain types of litter are harmful to Mini Lops: clay litter, clumping litter, cedar shavings, and corn cob litter.
SEE OUR KEEPING RABBITS HEALTHY BLOG FOR MORE INFORMATION
What do I bring my new bunny home in?
Option 1: Bring a box with pine pellets or a potty pad at the bottom and then timothy hay on top of it so he/she can go potty if needed and eat hay (which will help his/her digestive system).
Option 2: Bring a small crate. If it is a plastic crate, it should be lined, just like you would do with a box (read option 1). If it is a cloth crate, it is best to place towel or potty pad in the bottom.
Option 3: If you are not going very far, holding them in your lap is just fine and gets him/her used to your smell and the sounds of your family.
Option 4: You can do a combination of things. You can hold your bunny until he/she begins nibbling at your clothes and if they do that, they are letting you know that they need to go potty and that would be a good time to put them in their box or crate so they can go potty.
Mini Lops are wonderful with children. If you have children, just be sure to educate your children on the proper ways of holding bunnies so they do not get scratched accidentally and bunnies are not harmed. Rabbits can be startled by loud noises or sudden movements, so it is best to approach them slowly and from the side, because their eyes are on the side of their face.
Once you bring your bunny home, give him/her time to acclimate to their new surroundings. After your new addition is comfortable, then you can introduce him/her to more things in their new home.
Enjoy your new bunny, the more you snuggle them, once they are used to their new home, the more comfortable they will feel, and they truly become apart of the family. They are so precious, each one is unique and special in his or her own way.
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